The origin of cacao and chocolate
When I first brought chocolate from Ecuador back to the Netherlands, some people would ask me: Chocolate from Ecuador, is that any good?” When you know the answer, it seems a strange question, but before I went to Ecuador, I might have asked the same question. In Europe we refer to Belgium and Swiss chocolate as being the best chocolate. But when you think about this, it is actually odd. The main ingredient of chocolate is the cacao bean, which doesn’t grow in Belgium or Switzerland. So where does cacao come from?
The origin of cacao
Although there were genetic signs that the cacao tree comes originally from South America, it was long thought that the Central American cultures were the first to consume the cacao bean. This was until 2018 when archaeologist Sonia Zarrillo was looking for evidence of starch grains at the ancient site of Santa Ana-La Florida in Ecuador. This is an archaeological preserve of the ancient Mayo Chinchipe culture (5500 – 1700 B.C.). Sonia Zarrillo had already found evidence of maize, beans, manioc, and chilli pepper in ceramics recovered from the site, when fellow researcher and anthropologist Michael Blake asked her to check for traces of T. cacao. Not only they found DNA evidence of T. cacao starch grains, but also residues of biomolecules found in the plant (including theobromine, theophylline, and caffeine)!
The evidence shows that the Mayo-Chinchipe people were definitely using the seeds (because these contain the starch grains) and very likely the sweet pulp that surrounds the seed as well as early as 5450 years ago! This is almost 1500 years before known cacao consumption in Central America!
The importance and mysteries of the cacao bean
Since the ceramic vessels were found in ceremonial locations at the archaeological site, it is likely that cacao was an important component of ritually significant drinks. However, so far, no evidence was found that the Mayo Chinchipe culture was also roasting the cacao bean. Other big mysteries include the question why there is so little archaeological evidence of the use of the cacao bean through ancient Ecuadorian history and how the cacao bean travelled from South- to Central America?
Olmecs and chocolate
Archaeological evidence proofs that the Olmec culture, south of current Mexico City, consumed the cacao bean as early as 1900 B.C. They ground the cacao beans and added water in order to make a drink that stimulated and refreshed. Then around 1500 B.C., the Olmec began brewing, roasting, and grinding cacao beans for drinks and food, including (chocolate) gruel. But why? Like coffee beans, in their raw state, plucked from tangy-sweet, gummy white flesh lining a large pod shaped like a Nerf football, cacao beans are bitter and unrecognizable as chocolate. Why would you take these beans, dry them, let them ferment, and then roast them? It’s not something you would normally think of. One theory suggest that someone who was eating the sweet white flesh from the cacao pod and spit the seeds (the cacao beans) into the fire. The rich smell of them roasting might have inspired the thought that: “Maybe there’s something more we could do with these cacao beans…”
Olmecs, Maya’s, Aztecs and cacao
The Olmecs passed their love for the cacao bean on to the Maya culture, who passed it on to the Aztecs. To all three of these cultures the cacao tree was sacred, provided by their gods. Consuming cacao was only done in special occasions and the cacao beans were of high value while trading. Until the Spanish arrived, consuming cacao in Central America was as important as consuming wine in Europe. It is likely that its importance through Central American history made it easier for archaeologist to find evidence of cacao consumption in Central America. But how the tree travelled from Ecuador to Central America is still a mystery.
Early Cacao production in Ecuador
What is also not completely clear is when the Spanish consumed their first cacao. Likely it were the Maya women who introduced them to their first cacao drink. In turn, the Spanish introduced the consumption of cacao in Europa, while the British, French and Portuguese helped with spreading the consumption of cacao around the rest of the world, leading to a rising demand. The late 19th century saw the beginning of the so-called cacao boom.
The cacao boom in Ecuador
To satisfy demand, the Spanish began harvesting cacao beans commercially on plantations in coastal Ecuador. By the mid-1800s, cacao comprised over half of Ecuador’s exports, spurred by the price drop in imported products and the mechanization of production that made drinking chocolate affordable to the masses. As the boom era of cacao progressed, Ecuador became the world’s largest producer of cacao beans and Europe its largest buyer. The flavourful Arriba cacao bean industry of the Guayas basin transformed the region. The cacao boom was fundamental in forming Ecuador’s economy and banking system. In Guayaquil, where the main port was, an upper class developed and the city prospered, receiving many foreign investors as well. Until today, Guayaquil is Ecuador’s financial capital.
Cacao disaster in Ecuador
First in 1916 and again in 1919, two unheard of fungal diseases attacked the coastal Arriba trees. Ecuador’s crop plummeted to less than ten percent of the world’s annual production. Over time, western Ecuador’s cacao industry adjusted, but it never fully recovered.
Current cacao production in Africa
When Ecuador lost most of its cacao trees, it created an opening for new areas to step in and become mayor cacao produces. It were the Portuguese, who planted the first cacao trees on the African Island São Tomé and Príncipe in 1822. This was the start of new cacao era. Because cocoa beans typically grow within 20 degrees of the equator, certain African countries turned out to be very productive at producing cacao beans. Currently, by far, most cacao beans are produced in West African countries, with Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana together contributing to more than 50% of the worlds production. This isn’t because the conditions for growing cacao beans are better than in Ecuador, but because the cultivation process is cheaper.
The negative impacts from cacao production
Unfortunately the African cacao production isn’t without controversy. Many farmers don’t receive enough money for their cacao beans, which results in them paying not enough money to their workers and also not paying enough attention to the environment… For every tonne of cocoa sold, farmers are estimated to receive only less than 7% of the value. By comparison, manufacturers capture an estimated 35% share and retailers 44%! The current cacao production not only has a negative impact on the cacao farmers, but also on the environment. The average 40-gram bar of milk chocolate carries a carbon footprint of approximately 200 grams, while the carbon footprint of dark chocolate can rise up to 300 grams for a bar, due to the higher cocoa content. On top of this, growing the cacao beans necessary to produce this one chocolate bar, will require more than 400 litres of water! This has to change.
Sustainable cacao production
There are several ways to improve the sustainability of the cacao production. However, realistically most of them will not be implemented, unless we, as consumers, are willing to pay more for our chocolate bar. Jerry Toth, who is both a cacao farmer and chocolate producer in Ecuador, believes that part of the solution will be if cacao is treated more like wine again. Like in the early days, cacao consumption should be considered more as a treat than a necessary. Like you treat yourself to a good glass of wine, you treat yourself to a good piece of chocolate. When cacao farmers, like grape farmers, receive more appreciation and better prices, they will be able to invest in more sustainable cultivation of the cacao trees, which will also result in a higher quality. It will be a win/ win situation for everyone involved. With his own Ecuadorian chocolate brand, produced from the finest Ecuadorian Nacional cacao in the world, Jerry Toth is trying to set an example. More about his Ecuadorian Chocolate, you can find on To’ak Chocolate. More tips on how to restore cacao production in Ecuador, by restoring trust and working together.
The benefits from cacao consumption
Already for thousands of years it is known that consuming cacao has benefits for your health. The Mayas gave cacao drinks to their warriors for its health benefits and to stimulate them. Nowadays we know that cacao beans have polyphenols with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties. Polyphenols are a category of plant compounds. Regularly consuming polyphenols is thought to boost digestion and brain health and protect against heart disease, type 2 diabetes, and even certain cancers. On top, cacao also contains phenethylamine which produces a mild euphoric feeling and reduces stress. For a maximal positive effect it is recommended to consume organic produced pure chocolate, made from fine cacao. The healthiest chocolate is made from the Ancient Nacional cacao bean from Ecuador, because this cacao contains more polyphenols.
